Unzipped Returns: Isaac Mizrahi Reflects on 30th Anniversary

"It evokes a sense of nostalgia, wisdom, and an inexplicable empowerment," states Isaac Mizrahi regarding the 30th anniversary of "Unzipped." This revered documentary, directed by Mizrahi's then-partner Douglas Keeve, follows the renowned fashion designer as he prepares for his fall 1994 collection in New York City. Having premiered at the 1995 Sundance Film Festival and won the Audience Award, the film now returns to Park City with a pristine 4K digital restoration.

Keeve's intimate perspective as Mizrahi's lover undoubtedly lends the film its unique insights into the designer's creative process and the fashion industry. However, their relationship also facilitates a less flattering portrayal than one might anticipate: Mizrahi recounts that his immersion in his work often led him to forget the presence of a camera, which allowed Keeve to capture many of his most vulnerable moments and, despite Mizrahi's initial hesitation, include them in the final cut.

One such moment continues to elicit cringes from Mizrahi decades later. "I burst into tears when they showed me that [Jean-Paul] Gaultier thing," he recalls, referring to an instance where an employee presents him with a "Nanook of the North"-inspired collection released by the French fashion house prior to his own. "Why would you show me that? It's like you get some cruel pleasure out of it!" he exclaims in the film before slamming the magazine shut.

"I mean, that's not something you want people to see, right?" he says now, running his hands through his curly mane in the same anxious manner as in that pivotal scene. "Like, 'Why is this person crying over something so trivial?'"

In fact, Keeve's depiction of Mizrahi in "Unzipped" drove such a wedge between them that they separated shortly after its release. "I don't think we would have stayed together regardless, but it definitely tore us apart in some ways," Mizrahi admits. "It's not common to have your partner accompanying you at work, recording everything you do and every word you say."

Despite this, Mizrahi intentionally avoided the editing room as much as feasible. "It was practically impossible," he acknowledges. "I attempted, and I succeeded. I didn't watch it 3 million times. I watched it 1 million times," he quips.

Mizrahi's relentless ambition forms the core of the film, while Keeve's candid portrayal of 1990s New York City envelops it as seamlessly as one of the designer's signature gowns. Cinematographers Ellen Kuras and Robert Leacock employ grainy black-and-white for the first half, transitioning to vibrant color for the final runway show. As Mizrahi and his team navigate the streets of downtown Manhattan for casting sessions and wardrobe fittings, we witness him forge close bonds with supermodels such as Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, and Naomi Campbell, as well as rising stars like Kate Moss.

Mizrahi's favorite parts of "Unzipped" are the more forthright moments, including those with his mother, Sarah Mizrahi. "That's what I cherish most about my life," he says.

However, he emphasizes that reflecting on the past is not solely about indulging in nostalgia. "Introspection is essential," Mizrahi states. "Not to reminisce, 'Oh, isn't that adorable, isn't that sweet?' No, it's imperative to look back and realize, 'Oh wait, this is brimming with joy. This is what I accomplished. This is what I should pursue.'"